Greg Chapman

I plan to strip and repaint my elderly boat. I see people have mentioned
using a combination of brush and foam roller in the past, but can't remember
which you are supposed to use first.

I would have thought that the idea of using a roller was to avoid brush
marks, but the last posting I recall seeing suggested that it is the brush
that is used to finish off. Did I get it wrong? What is the correct
procedure and why?

--
Greg Chapman
http://www.waterwaysguides.co.uk
for updates to Nicholson, Imray and Pearsons Guides - and lots more!

Neil Arlidge

Greg Chapman wrote:
> I plan to strip and repaint my elderly boat. I see people have
> mentioned using a combination of brush and foam roller in the past,
> but can't remember which you are supposed to use first.
>
> I would have thought that the idea of using a roller was to avoid
> brush marks, but the last posting I recall seeing suggested that it
> is the brush that is used to finish off. Did I get it wrong? What
> is the correct procedure and why?

Those posh narrow boat types like to *just* see the brush marks ;-)

Roller used first to get paint on quick, then high quality brush (like my
set of 30 year old Hamilton Perfections) use to lay off paint, getting rid
of the dimply roller effect.

--
Neil Arlidge - NB Earnest
Follow the travels of the TNC at : http://www.tuesdaynightclub.co.uk

Ron Jones

Neil Arlidge wrote:
> Greg Chapman wrote:
>> I plan to strip and repaint my elderly boat. I see people have
>> mentioned using a combination of brush and foam roller in the past,
>> but can't remember which you are supposed to use first.
>>
>> I would have thought that the idea of using a roller was to avoid
>> brush marks, but the last posting I recall seeing suggested that it
>> is the brush that is used to finish off. Did I get it wrong? What
>> is the correct procedure and why?
>
> Those posh narrow boat types like to *just* see the brush marks ;-)
>
> Roller used first to get paint on quick, then high quality brush
> (like my set of 30 year old Hamilton Perfections) use to lay off
> paint, getting rid of the dimply roller effect.

Paint pads are also a good way to finish off - but a lot depends on the
paint, whether it's a drying one or curing type, the latter at the *right*
temperature (not easy), gives a great hard gloss, no matter how you put it
on, that's because the paint is still flowing after you finish brushing and
"self-smoothes".

--
--
Ron Jones

Don't repeat history, see unreported near misses in chemical lab/plant
at http://www.crhf.org.uk

Ed Harris

Ron Jones wrote:
> Neil Arlidge wrote:
>
>>Greg Chapman wrote:
>>
> Paint pads are also a good way to finish off - but a lot depends on the
> paint, whether it's a drying one or curing type, the latter at the *right*
> temperature (not easy), gives a great hard gloss, no matter how you put it
> on, that's because the paint is still flowing after you finish brushing and
> "self-smoothes".
>
Never quite understood why you couldn't develop a paint with super high
surface tension that would self-smooth - sounds like you can.

--
Ed. NB Guinevere on the Nene
==
Replace Surname to reply.

Ron Jones

Ed Harris wrote:
> Ron Jones wrote:
>> Neil Arlidge wrote:
>>
>>> Greg Chapman wrote:
>>>
>> Paint pads are also a good way to finish off - but a lot depends on
>> the paint, whether it's a drying one or curing type, the latter at
>> the *right* temperature (not easy), gives a great hard gloss, no
>> matter how you put it on, that's because the paint is still flowing
>> after you finish brushing and "self-smoothes".
>>
> Never quite understood why you couldn't develop a paint with super
> high surface tension that would self-smooth - sounds like you can.

If the paint is a "normal" one - i.e. drying, then the top surface is going
to set so fast as the top layer of solvent evaporates, that all the brush
strokes will be fixed. The paint I was referring to was International 709 -
nice paint, but a real pig to get the right conditions - it's a two part
paint, you mix the two tins and you then have about 2-3 hours to apply
(depending on the temperature!) [and you can't spray it, due to toxicity,
unless you have adequate PPE]. One area I did on the cruiser was really
perfect gloss, but I put it on too cold and it took 5 days to harden!

--
--
Ron Jones

Don't repeat history, see unreported near misses in chemical lab/plant
at http://www.crhf.org.uk

Brian Cleverly

Ron Jones wrote:

> Ed Harris wrote:
>
>>Ron Jones wrote:
>>
>>>Neil Arlidge wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Greg Chapman wrote:
>>>>
>>>
>>>Paint pads are also a good way to finish off - but a lot depends on
>>>the paint, whether it's a drying one or curing type, the latter at
>>>the *right* temperature (not easy), gives a great hard gloss, no
>>>matter how you put it on, that's because the paint is still flowing
>>>after you finish brushing and "self-smoothes".
>>>
>>
>>Never quite understood why you couldn't develop a paint with super
>>high surface tension that would self-smooth - sounds like you can.
>
>
> If the paint is a "normal" one - i.e. drying, then the top surface is going
> to set so fast as the top layer of solvent evaporates, that all the brush
> strokes will be fixed. The paint I was referring to was International 709 -
> nice paint, but a real pig to get the right conditions - it's a two part
> paint, you mix the two tins and you then have about 2-3 hours to apply
> (depending on the temperature!) [and you can't spray it, due to toxicity,
> unless you have adequate PPE]. One area I did on the cruiser was really
> perfect gloss, but I put it on too cold and it took 5 days to harden!
>

You might like to read the painting tips I have on my website.

http://www.anzam.com/howto_index_004.htm

The product I use is Interlux Interthane. Interlux is the US brand name used by
International Paints and the Interthane is, I believe, the same as International
709. Anyway, the procedure I outline is the same for any 2 pack LPU paint.

Brian C