NItro fuel

I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what was in
the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to be
mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker and
thinner?

"Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what was
in
> the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to be
> mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker
and
> thinner?
>
Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably
get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try to
start the car without doing what I put below:

Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying whatever
is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to remove
anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new fuel
and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the
carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the
fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage.

Chris

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:_%Bmf.2093$n95.1708@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
> "Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> > I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what
was
> in
> > the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to
be
> > mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker
> and
> > thinner?
> >
> Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably
> get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try to
> start the car without doing what I put below:
>
> Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying whatever
> is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to
remove
> anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new
fuel
> and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the
> carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the
> fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage.
>
> Chris
Thanks Will do.

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:_%Bmf.2093$n95.1708@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
> "Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>> I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what was
> in
>> the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to
>> be
>> mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker
> and
>> thinner?
>>
> Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably
> get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try to
> start the car without doing what I put below:
>
> Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying whatever
> is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to
> remove
> anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new
> fuel
> and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the
> carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the
> fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage.
>
> Chris

In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances are
the internals are a gummy mess as well.

Doc

>
>

""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:BMOdnek96o4knAbenZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>
> "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:_%Bmf.2093$n95.1708@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
>> "Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>>> I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what
>>> was
>> in
>>> the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to
>>> be
>>> mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker
>> and
>>> thinner?
>>>
>> Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably
>> get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try
>> to
>> start the car without doing what I put below:
>>
>> Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying
>> whatever
>> is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to
>> remove
>> anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new
>> fuel
>> and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the
>> carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the
>> fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage.
>>
>> Chris
>
> In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances are
> the internals are a gummy mess as well.
>

That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to being
lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle that
through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine, which
are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them
seizing or corroding in transit.

--
Dan

> > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances
are
> > the internals are a gummy mess as well.
> >
>
> That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to
being
> lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle that
> through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine, which
> are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them
> seizing or corroding in transit.
>
> --
> Dan
>
>
That would be a better option for Simon rather than what "Doc" said as he
appears to be a bit 'green', probably not a good idea for somebody with
their first nitro car to go pulling the engine apart for a clean before
trying to start it. It may start now but what are the chances of it starting
after?

Simon - do what Dan says but leave the plug out of the engine as you turn it
over to avoid hydraulic locking the piston and possibly damaging the conrod.

Chris

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:K_2nf.2604$Dg6.1729@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
> > > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances
> are
> > > the internals are a gummy mess as well.
> > >
> >
> > That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to
> being
> > lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle
that
> > through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine,
which
> > are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them
> > seizing or corroding in transit.
> >
> > --
> > Dan
> >
> >
> That would be a better option for Simon rather than what "Doc" said as he
> appears to be a bit 'green', probably not a good idea for somebody with
> their first nitro car to go pulling the engine apart for a clean before
> trying to start it. It may start now but what are the chances of it
starting
> after?
>
> Simon - do what Dan says but leave the plug out of the engine as you turn
it
> over to avoid hydraulic locking the piston and possibly damaging the
conrod.
>
> Chris
>
A bit 'green'". What you trying to say?!?!?!?!

Thanks for help.

p.s hydraulic locking - is this the same as pressing the primer pump too
many times and finding the pull start is harder to pull after?

"Simon" <lww004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ZBCnf.7967$iz3.5750@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>
> "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:K_2nf.2604$Dg6.1729@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>> > > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances
>> are
>> > > the internals are a gummy mess as well.
>> > >
>> >
>> > That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to
>> being
>> > lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle
> that
>> > through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine,
> which
>> > are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them
>> > seizing or corroding in transit.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Dan
>> >
>> >
>> That would be a better option for Simon rather than what "Doc" said as he
>> appears to be a bit 'green', probably not a good idea for somebody with
>> their first nitro car to go pulling the engine apart for a clean before
>> trying to start it. It may start now but what are the chances of it
> starting
>> after?
>>
>> Simon - do what Dan says but leave the plug out of the engine as you turn
> it
>> over to avoid hydraulic locking the piston and possibly damaging the
> conrod.
>>
>> Chris
>>
> A bit 'green'". What you trying to say?!?!?!?!
>
> Thanks for help.
>
> p.s hydraulic locking - is this the same as pressing the primer pump too
> many times and finding the pull start is harder to pull after?
>
>
Another newbie here.
I had trouble keeping a nitro engine running after had stood idle for 3-4
months
advice seen on this post was followed with fresh fuel and new inline filter
engine fired up on 3rd pull and now running well.

Thanks to all for the advice on this post

"Frank Sell" <frank.sell@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:coedncHUw8se6nHYnZ2dnUVZ8saonZ2d@bt.com...
>
> "Simon" <lww004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ZBCnf.7967$iz3.5750@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> >
> > "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:K_2nf.2604$Dg6.1729@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
> >> > > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up.
Chances
> >> are
> >> > > the internals are a gummy mess as well.
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> > That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due
to
> >> being
> >> > lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle
> > that
> >> > through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine,
> > which
> >> > are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop
them
> >> > seizing or corroding in transit.
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> > Dan
> >> >
> >> >
> >> That would be a better option for Simon rather than what "Doc" said as
he
> >> appears to be a bit 'green', probably not a good idea for somebody with
> >> their first nitro car to go pulling the engine apart for a clean before
> >> trying to start it. It may start now but what are the chances of it
> > starting
> >> after?
> >>
> >> Simon - do what Dan says but leave the plug out of the engine as you
turn
> > it
> >> over to avoid hydraulic locking the piston and possibly damaging the
> > conrod.
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> > A bit 'green'". What you trying to say?!?!?!?!
> >
> > Thanks for help.
> >
> > p.s hydraulic locking - is this the same as pressing the primer pump too
> > many times and finding the pull start is harder to pull after?
> >
> >
> Another newbie here.
> I had trouble keeping a nitro engine running after had stood idle for 3-4
> months

I have trouble getting my motors to idle for more than 90 seconds :-) let
alone 3 - 4 months.(JJ's)

> advice seen on this post was followed with fresh fuel and new inline
filter
> engine fired up on 3rd pull and now running well.
>
> Thanks to all for the advice on this post
>

I'm glad to these forums could be of service.

	#1
Simon	NItro fuel I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what was in the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to be mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker and thinner?

	#2
Chris Dugan	Re: NItro fuel "Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k... > I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what was in > the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to be > mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker and > thinner? > Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try to start the car without doing what I put below: Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying whatever is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to remove anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new fuel and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage. Chris

	#3
Simon	Re: NItro fuel "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message news:_%Bmf.2093$n95.1708@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net... > "Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message > news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k... > > I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what was > in > > the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to be > > mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker > and > > thinner? > > > Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably > get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try to > start the car without doing what I put below: > > Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying whatever > is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to remove > anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new fuel > and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the > carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the > fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage. > > Chris Thanks Will do.

	#4
\Doc\	Re: NItro fuel "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message news:_%Bmf.2093$n95.1708@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net... > "Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message > news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k... >> I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what was > in >> the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to >> be >> mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker > and >> thinner? >> > Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably > get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try to > start the car without doing what I put below: > > Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying whatever > is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to > remove > anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new > fuel > and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the > carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the > fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage. > > Chris In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances are the internals are a gummy mess as well. Doc > >

	#5
DanTXD	Re: NItro fuel ""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message news:BMOdnek96o4knAbenZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@adelphia.com ... > > "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message > news:_%Bmf.2093$n95.1708@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net... >> "Simon" <lw004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message >> news:XVBmf.6095$iz3.2614@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k... >>> I just brought a gallon of nitro fuels. I went to put it in, but what >>> was >> in >>> the tank was thick. The fuel is very much the opposite. Do I suppose to >>> be >>> mixing a oil additive with it? Or is different percentage mixes thicker >> and >>> thinner? >>> >> Fuel left a long time (I'm talking about 5 months or more) will noticably >> get thick and sticky as the methanol in it evaporates so don't even try >> to >> start the car without doing what I put below: >> >> Use a dribble of the new fuel to wash the tank out after emptying >> whatever >> is in it, remove the fuel and pressure lines and blow them through to >> remove >> anythign in them. Re-connect everything and then fill the tank with new >> fuel >> and go play after priming the fuel system. You may also have to open the >> carb (move the throttle servo by hand to do this) and then blow down the >> fuel feed hose to make sure that the needle is clear of any blockage. >> >> Chris > > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances are > the internals are a gummy mess as well. > That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to being lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle that through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine, which are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them seizing or corroding in transit. -- Dan

	#6
Chris Dugan	Re: NItro fuel > > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances are > > the internals are a gummy mess as well. > > > > That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to being > lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle that > through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine, which > are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them > seizing or corroding in transit. > > -- > Dan > > That would be a better option for Simon rather than what "Doc" said as he appears to be a bit 'green', probably not a good idea for somebody with their first nitro car to go pulling the engine apart for a clean before trying to start it. It may start now but what are the chances of it starting after? Simon - do what Dan says but leave the plug out of the engine as you turn it over to avoid hydraulic locking the piston and possibly damaging the conrod. Chris

	#8
Frank Sell	Re: NItro fuel "Simon" <lww004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message news:ZBCnf.7967$iz3.5750@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k... > > "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message > news:K_2nf.2604$Dg6.1729@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net... >> > > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances >> are >> > > the internals are a gummy mess as well. >> > > >> > >> > That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to >> being >> > lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle > that >> > through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine, > which >> > are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them >> > seizing or corroding in transit. >> > >> > -- >> > Dan >> > >> > >> That would be a better option for Simon rather than what "Doc" said as he >> appears to be a bit 'green', probably not a good idea for somebody with >> their first nitro car to go pulling the engine apart for a clean before >> trying to start it. It may start now but what are the chances of it > starting >> after? >> >> Simon - do what Dan says but leave the plug out of the engine as you turn > it >> over to avoid hydraulic locking the piston and possibly damaging the > conrod. >> >> Chris >> > A bit 'green'". What you trying to say?!?!?!?! > > Thanks for help. > > p.s hydraulic locking - is this the same as pressing the primer pump too > many times and finding the pull start is harder to pull after? > > Another newbie here. I had trouble keeping a nitro engine running after had stood idle for 3-4 months advice seen on this post was followed with fresh fuel and new inline filter engine fired up on 3rd pull and now running well. Thanks to all for the advice on this post

	#9
Richard	Re: NItro fuel "Frank Sell" <frank.sell@btinternet.com> wrote in message news:coedncHUw8se6nHYnZ2dnUVZ8saonZ2d@bt.com... > > "Simon" <lww004v6382@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message > news:ZBCnf.7967$iz3.5750@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k... > > > > "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message > > news:K_2nf.2604$Dg6.1729@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net... > >> > > In that situation I'd yank the motor as well and open it up. Chances > >> are > >> > > the internals are a gummy mess as well. > >> > > > >> > > >> > That's probably what should be done - but what i'd probably do, due to > >> being > >> > lazy, is just pour a little fresh fuel straight into the carb, cycle > > that > >> > through, then a little more and cycle that. Like with a new engine, > > which > >> > are apparantly often lightly coated with some crap inside to stop them > >> > seizing or corroding in transit. > >> > > >> > -- > >> > Dan > >> > > >> > > >> That would be a better option for Simon rather than what "Doc" said as he > >> appears to be a bit 'green', probably not a good idea for somebody with > >> their first nitro car to go pulling the engine apart for a clean before > >> trying to start it. It may start now but what are the chances of it > > starting > >> after? > >> > >> Simon - do what Dan says but leave the plug out of the engine as you turn > > it > >> over to avoid hydraulic locking the piston and possibly damaging the > > conrod. > >> > >> Chris > >> > > A bit 'green'". What you trying to say?!?!?!?! > > > > Thanks for help. > > > > p.s hydraulic locking - is this the same as pressing the primer pump too > > many times and finding the pull start is harder to pull after? > > > > > Another newbie here. > I had trouble keeping a nitro engine running after had stood idle for 3-4 > months I have trouble getting my motors to idle for more than 90 seconds :-) let alone 3 - 4 months.(JJ's) > advice seen on this post was followed with fresh fuel and new inline filter > engine fired up on 3rd pull and now running well. > > Thanks to all for the advice on this post > I'm glad to these forums could be of service.