Duckunder or lifting section.

Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install some
sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12"
wide at this point.

"Keith J Patrick" wrote

> Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install
> some sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be
> about 12" wide at this point.

Depends upon how capable you are of ducking-under. As I've got older I find
it harder to do, so would personally go for a lifting section.

John.

On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:50:55 +0100, "Keith J Patrick"
<patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote:

>Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install some
>sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12"
>wide at this point.

As you get older, duckunders seem to get lower.

Well, I'm already that. or at least feel it some of the time.
Are lifting sections the best, or removeable ?, I've seen one in an American
magazine which was hinged to the side.

"Christopher A.Lee" <calee@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:6crbb31tm1h41tpb8sojpdv4nrv5lrh14u@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:50:55 +0100, "Keith J Patrick"
> <patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>>Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install
>>some
>>sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12"
>>wide at this point.
>
> As you get older, duckunders seem to get lower.
>
>
>

On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 17:18:29 +0100, "Keith J Patrick"
<patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote:

>Well, I'm already that. or at least feel it some of the time.
>Are lifting sections the best, or removeable ?, I've seen one in an American
>magazine which was hinged to the side.

A friend works for a well-known Chinese owned manufacturer of live
steam and electric G-gauge models, in their American HQ.

He set up a test track around the walls of the workshop, using a
through truss bridge from another manufacturer, that he just dropped
into place, with a length of flex to supply track power.

If it were me, I'd want some kind of electrical protection to turn the
track power off when it was lifted but that shouldn't be too
difficult.

>"Christopher A.Lee" <calee@optonline.net> wrote in message
>news:6crbb31tm1h41tpb8sojpdv4nrv5lrh14u@4ax.com.. .
>> On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:50:55 +0100, "Keith J Patrick"
>> <patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install
>>>some
>>>sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12"
>>>wide at this point.
>>
>> As you get older, duckunders seem to get lower.
>>
>>
>>
>

Keith J Patrick wrote:
> Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install some
> sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12"
> wide at this point.
>
>

Duckunders should be avoided. Someone is sure to come up for air too
soon, and damage the layout (not to mention his or her back.)

Depending on the space inside the layout, a gate might work. But liftout
or gate, the key is reliable mating of layout structure, then rail
alignment is automatic. The ones that seem to work best (of the few Ive
actually seen) have metal plates and pins with close clearances to join
the movable sections. I've also seen a couple of scale models of
lifting/rolling bridges of a suitable size. Impressive, but need to be
around 300 scale foot (OO) span, which means they'll dominate the layout.

HTH

Christopher A.Lee wrote:
> On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 17:18:29 +0100, "Keith J Patrick"
> <patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>> Well, I'm already that. or at least feel it some of the time.
>> Are lifting sections the best, or removeable ?, I've seen one in an
>> American magazine which was hinged to the side.
>
> A friend works for a well-known Chinese owned manufacturer of live
> steam and electric G-gauge models, in their American HQ.
>
> He set up a test track around the walls of the workshop, using a
> through truss bridge from another manufacturer, that he just dropped
> into place, with a length of flex to supply track power.
>
> If it were me, I'd want some kind of electrical protection to turn the
> track power off when it was lifted but that shouldn't be too
> difficult.
>

Feed the sections either side from the lift out section so if lift out isn't
there the tracks leading to it are not energised.

--
Cheers for now,

John from Harrow, Middx

remove spamnocars to reply

Keith J Patrick wrote:
>
> Well, I'm already that. or at least feel it some of the time.
> Are lifting sections the best, or removeable ?, I've seen one in an American
> magazine which was hinged to the side.

If you're getting on in years a hinged section is preferable - imagine
the frustration of not remembering where you left the bridge!
Up, down, or sideways? It depends on your space and layout. Personally
I'd avoid the gate swinging type due to the possibility of it getting
out of shape when someone leans on it.
Upwards probably gives the best protection for the track and any scenic
detailing.

William Pearce wrote:
> If you're hingeing upwards, remember that the centre line of the hinge
> pins or the pivot must be on the level of the rail head.

Not necessarily. I've seen upward lifting sections where the hinges were
mounted on blocks above the rail head. This was done to provide
clearance for a through bridge on the lift-up section.

> Downwards hingeing
> would not need this, but may be awkward to handle and to lock in closed
> position.

Besides exposing any scenery on the section to passing knees (knobbly
ones are especially destructive. ;-))

[...]

	#1
Keith J Patrick	Duckunder or lifting section. Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install some sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12" wide at this point.

	#2
John Turner	Re: Duckunder or lifting section. "Keith J Patrick" wrote > Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install > some sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be > about 12" wide at this point. Depends upon how capable you are of ducking-under. As I've got older I find it harder to do, so would personally go for a lifting section. John.

	#3
Christopher A.Lee	Re: Duckunder or lifting section. On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:50:55 +0100, "Keith J Patrick" <patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote: >Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install some >sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12" >wide at this point. As you get older, duckunders seem to get lower.

	#4
Keith J Patrick	Re: Duckunder or lifting section. Well, I'm already that. or at least feel it some of the time. Are lifting sections the best, or removeable ?, I've seen one in an American magazine which was hinged to the side. "Christopher A.Lee" <calee@optonline.net> wrote in message news:6crbb31tm1h41tpb8sojpdv4nrv5lrh14u@4ax.com... > On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:50:55 +0100, "Keith J Patrick" > <patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote: > >>Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install >>some >>sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12" >>wide at this point. > > As you get older, duckunders seem to get lower. > > >

	#6
Wolf	Re: Duckunder or lifting section. Keith J Patrick wrote: > Layout needs to come across doorway of shed, do I duckunder or install some > sort of lifting section?Baseboard height is 50", and needs to be about 12" > wide at this point. > > Duckunders should be avoided. Someone is sure to come up for air too soon, and damage the layout (not to mention his or her back.) Depending on the space inside the layout, a gate might work. But liftout or gate, the key is reliable mating of layout structure, then rail alignment is automatic. The ones that seem to work best (of the few Ive actually seen) have metal plates and pins with close clearances to join the movable sections. I've also seen a couple of scale models of lifting/rolling bridges of a suitable size. Impressive, but need to be around 300 scale foot (OO) span, which means they'll dominate the layout. HTH

	#7
John Shelley	Re: Duckunder or lifting section. Christopher A.Lee wrote: > On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 17:18:29 +0100, "Keith J Patrick" > <patrickinpowys@btinternet.com> wrote: > >> Well, I'm already that. or at least feel it some of the time. >> Are lifting sections the best, or removeable ?, I've seen one in an >> American magazine which was hinged to the side. > > A friend works for a well-known Chinese owned manufacturer of live > steam and electric G-gauge models, in their American HQ. > > He set up a test track around the walls of the workshop, using a > through truss bridge from another manufacturer, that he just dropped > into place, with a length of flex to supply track power. > > If it were me, I'd want some kind of electrical protection to turn the > track power off when it was lifted but that shouldn't be too > difficult. > Feed the sections either side from the lift out section so if lift out isn't there the tracks leading to it are not energised. -- Cheers for now, John from Harrow, Middx remove spamnocars to reply

	#8
Greg Procter	Re: Duckunder or lifting section. Keith J Patrick wrote: > > Well, I'm already that. or at least feel it some of the time. > Are lifting sections the best, or removeable ?, I've seen one in an American > magazine which was hinged to the side. If you're getting on in years a hinged section is preferable - imagine the frustration of not remembering where you left the bridge! Up, down, or sideways? It depends on your space and layout. Personally I'd avoid the gate swinging type due to the possibility of it getting out of shape when someone leans on it. Upwards probably gives the best protection for the track and any scenic detailing.