| #1 | |
|
|
I have 4 brass hollow balls that need parts soft soldered onto them, they are highly visible as they are part of a Harrison H1 type clock, is there some compound or barrier that will stop the solder flowing all over the place, i once read about Tipex but not sure if this is good for soft solder, regards Dave -- DCreed ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DCreed's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=114343 View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 |
| #2 | |
|
|
On Aug 7, 10:42 pm, DCreed <DCreed.2uy...@rcgroups.com> wrote:
> I have 4 brass hollow balls that need parts soft soldered onto them, > they are highly visible as they are part of a Harrison H1 type clock, > is there some compound or barrier that will stop the solder flowing all > over the place, i once read about Tipex but not sure if this is good for > soft solder, regards Dave > > -- > DCreed > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > DCreed's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=114343 > View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 |
| #3 | |
|
|
David,
B****** Computer is going mad but simply use a soft pencil to shade around your solder joint. Norman |
| #4 | |
|
|
"DCreed" <DCreed.2uyw0n@rcgroups.com> wrote in message news Creed.2uyw0n@rcgroups.com...> > I have 4 brass hollow balls that need parts soft soldered onto them, > they are highly visible as they are part of a Harrison H1 type clock, > is there some compound or barrier that will stop the solder flowing all > over the place, i once read about Tipex but not sure if this is good for > soft solder, regards Dave > > > -- > DCreed > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > DCreed's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=114343 > View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 > Paste solder! It's a mix of solder, and flux, sold by jewelers supply firms. Use a light smear on one part, assemble, wipe off any exess, and heat. It makes a nice neat joint Steve R. -- Return address munged, to bugger up spammers! |
| #5 | |
|
|
On Aug 8, 1:46 am, "Steve R." <***********@*************.***> wrote:
> "DCreed" <DCreed.2uy...@rcgroups.com> wrote in message > > news Creed.2uyw0n@rcgroups.com...> > > > > I have 4 brass hollow balls that need parts soft soldered onto them, > > they are highly visible as they are part of a Harrison H1 type clock, > > is there some compound or barrier that will stop the solder flowing all > > over the place, i once read about Tipex but not sure if this is good for > > soft solder, regards Dave > > > -- > > DCreed > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > DCreed's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=114343 > > View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 > > Paste solder! It's a mix of solder, and flux, sold by jewelers supply firms. > Use a light smear on one part, assemble, wipe off any exess, and heat. It > makes a nice neat joint > > Steve R. > > -- > Return address munged, to bugger up spammers! David, Steve's solder paste is the way to go but it does not prevent the solder running which is your question. I have actually done this type of work leading car panels. I have also used it in silver soldering and brazing. Obviously, there is a proprietory 'shield' which does a similar task. However, this ''lead pencil' stuff is straight out of Newcastle. Following the logic, and my wife has a Dip.Orth., One uses powdered graphite as a parting agent in casting. 'Lead' pencils are graphite. OK, me old son? I could have said 'Tippex' but where the hell do you get a typewriter to get Tippex these days? Norm |
| #6 | |
|
|
"ravensworth2674" <norman@n-atkinson.wanadoo.co.uk> wrote in message news:1186555409.037982.305650@l70g2000hse.googlegr oups.com... > On Aug 8, 1:46 am, "Steve R." <***********@*************.***> wrote: > > "DCreed" <DCreed.2uy...@rcgroups.com> wrote in message > > > > news Creed.2uyw0n@rcgroups.com...> > > > > > > > > I have 4 brass hollow balls that need parts soft soldered onto them, > > > they are highly visible as they are part of a Harrison H1 type clock, > > > is there some compound or barrier that will stop the solder flowing all > > > over the place, i once read about Tipex but not sure if this is good for > > > soft solder, regards Dave > > > > > -- > > > DCreed > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > > > DCreed's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=114343 > > > View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 > > > > Paste solder! It's a mix of solder, and flux, sold by jewelers supply firms. > > Use a light smear on one part, assemble, wipe off any exess, and heat. It > > makes a nice neat joint > > > > Steve R. > > > > -- > > Return address munged, to bugger up spammers! > > David, > Steve's solder paste is the way to go but it does not > prevent the solder running which is your question. > I have actually done this type of work leading car panels. I have also > used it in silver soldering and brazing. > Obviously, there is a proprietory 'shield' which does a similar task. > However, this ''lead pencil' stuff is straight out of Newcastle. > Following the logic, and my wife has a Dip.Orth., One uses powdered > graphite as a parting agent in casting. 'Lead' pencils are graphite. > OK, me old son? > I could have said 'Tippex' but where the hell do you get a typewriter > to get Tippex these days? > > Norm > But the parting powder used in casting is to stop the two layers of moist sand sticking together, not the metals ! Graphite compounds are also used as a 'slick coating' on sand moulds to improve the surface finish, usually in an alcohol carrier that is 'flashed off' with a flame. AWEM |
| #7 | |
|
|
On Tue, 7 Aug 2007 16:42:25 -0500, DCreed <DCreed.2uyw0n@rcgroups.com>
wrote: > >I have 4 brass hollow balls that need parts soft soldered onto them, >they are highly visible as they are part of a Harrison H1 type clock, >is there some compound or barrier that will stop the solder flowing all >over the place, i once read about Tipex but not sure if this is good for >soft solder, regards Dave Tippex is perfect for soft solder. -- Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!" |
| #8 | |
|
|
Many thanks one and all, i will do tests with pencil and Tippex, regards Dave -- DCreed ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DCreed's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=114343 View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 |
| #9 | |
|
|
Chronos sells
Carr's Solder Black Err, uhm- David? |
| #10 | |
|
|
You could try one of the solder pastes (used for SMD's) applied sparingly inside the joint faces only, then a dry(not loaded with solder) hot iron right on the top of the part being afixed, but be aware solder will try to flow towards the scource of the heat. -- olmod ------------------------------------------------------------------------ olmod's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=30611 View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 |
| #11 | |
|
|
On Tue, 7 Aug 2007 16:42:25 -0500, DCreed <DCreed.2uyw0n@rcgroups.com>
wrote: >I have 4 brass hollow balls that need parts soft soldered onto them, >they are highly visible as they are part of a Harrison H1 type clock, >is there some compound or barrier that will stop the solder flowing all >over the place, i once read about Tipex but not sure if this is good for >soft solder, regards Dave Is the wall thickness of the ball too small to allow a mechanical connection (tapped hole/screw)? Another alternative is adhesives rather than soft solder - Epoxy for example. Rather easier to control where that goes, and to clean off any excess. If its good enough to attach the wings to a modern aircraft it should work well enough to hold your balls in place ;-) Regards, Tony |
| #12 | |
|
|
As I seem to live closest to Dave, does this mean that I have to
inspect his balls? I don't fancy the idea of applying e- poxy- resin and Dave seems to be in two minds about them being blacked. Should we suspend things until more research is conducted? There seems to be more than one drawback! Norm |
| #13 | |
|
|
On Wed, 08 Aug 2007 12:00:43 +0100, Tony Jeffree <tony@jeffree.co.uk> wrote:
>If its good enough to attach the wings to a modern aircraft it should >work well enough to hold your balls in place ;-) > >Regards, >Tony I hope my aircraft that I will be flying in soon won't have its wings attached with glue.... :-)) Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Rushden, UK prepair@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk |
| #14 | |
|
|
"Prepair Ltd" <prepair@easynet.co.uk> wrote in message news:nsajb3hcftnss1jpbv406ufq8i38g9g97a@4ax.com... > On Wed, 08 Aug 2007 12:00:43 +0100, Tony Jeffree <tony@jeffree.co.uk> wrote: > > >If its good enough to attach the wings to a modern aircraft it should > >work well enough to hold your balls in place ;-) > > > >Regards, > >Tony > > I hope my aircraft that I will be flying in soon won't have its wings attached > with glue.... :-)) > > Peter > -- > Peter A Forbes I'd be much more concerned if they weren't attached rather than were attached !!!! AWEM |
| #15 | |
|
|
Prepair Ltd wrote:
> I hope my aircraft that I will be flying in soon won't have its wings > attached with glue.... :-)) Don't worry, they are also screwed! :-)) Nick |
| #16 | |
|
|
On Wed, 08 Aug 2007 12:40:57 +0100, Prepair Ltd
<prepair@easynet.co.uk> wrote: >I hope my aircraft that I will be flying in soon won't have its wings attached >with glue.... :-)) Peter - Better quit flying in that case! Seriously, modern aircraft are making increasing use of composites, held together with high tech adhesives. The latest Boeing 787 claims to be 50% composite materials (for "composite materials" read "plastic"). See: http://www.boeing.com/commercial/787...ackground.html So soon you can fly in the modern equivalent of an Airfix kit <G> Regards, Tony |
| #17 | |
|
|
Hi Tony, the balls are spun brass, at a guess about 20 thou thick, i was thinking of silver soldering them but there is a big difference in the mass of the parts to be joined, the danger would be in melting the ball! Hi Norm, you can come round and look at my balls anytime, just have to wait till my wife comes home so i can ask her where she put them, Dave -- DCreed ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DCreed's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=114343 View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724680 |