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geoff
 
Default Re: Question: Anyone know owt about central heating systems?

In message <c40keg$2d9sl6$1@ID-193566.news.uni-berlin.de>, Oldbloke
<dannospam@yodanet.demon.co.uk> writes
>Salad Dodger wrote:
><snip>
>> As posted to uk.diy...
>>
>> Came home last night to a cold house. No joy from the boiler.
>>
>> Got someone from Yellow Pages, and they spent 2 hours today, claimed
>> it was the 3-way valve, not the boiler.
>>
>> Chappie has removed the electrical box, to get a new one, and
>> cross-connected some wires in the meantime.
>>
>> Matey has take £150 already, and reckons on another £150 when he
>> returns. (on Saturday!) (£45 per half-hour or part thereof)
>>
>> Would I be better off telling him to poke it, and get one of these
>> valve units myself? - They're £60 new, not £120 as quoted by the
>> fitter. Their T&C allows for this mark-up. Unbelievable.
>>
>> Will the lack of CH be just down to a faulty valve, or is more
>> involved?
>>
>> Boiler is a GlowWorm Economy Plus EP50F, and the valve is a
>> "Individual V4073A 1039 22mm mid position valve" in the airing
>> cupboard.
>>
>> As I say, he didn't attempt to change the valve, just the control
>> box/motor thing.
>>
>> All assistance gratefully received, before I get on the 'phone
>> tomorrow, and become a bit "shouty".

>
>Changing the valve is reasonably straightforward, took me an afternoon to do
>mine when it seized, but mine involved having to modify some already
>modified pipework.
>
>It is possible to change just the head (cheaper) or indeed just the motor
>inside the head (cheapest), ISTR you can get these from screwfix.
>
>

Well if the wires are crossed, there's little point in just replacing
the valve
I have lead outs for most valve heads and how they should be connected
for various set ups

I also have some synchron motors and reconditioned valve heads if that's
really the problem ... on condition that he never mentions the word
"cricket" in my presence
--
geoff
 
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