Re: ot: foak: kitchen worksurface replacement

In message <n6ooa39b49bgoi6664u789hsc2sqvtj2l3@4ax.com>, darsy
<darsy@sticky.co.uk> writes

>Any pointers for how difficult a job it is to replace the worksurfaces
>and sink/taps only?

Did that all myself, with help from a couple of mates. Mitre cutting the
surfaces is tricky and time consuming, but not that bad.

Make sure you leave enough clearance round the sink for the fixings that
hold it in place; offer the sink up and check the fixings before putting
the sealant on the surface in case you need to take it out and shave a
little more off of the opening.

>I presume it's just a matter of unscrewing the old bits and cutting
>new ones to fit - or am I missing something?

Yes, no and see below.

What's on the walls at the moment - typically it'll be tiles (which are
great for covering up a multitude of alignment sins). Have you got the
same tiles? Unless you have spares, you will break a couple getting the
old surface out. Whatever, there's a chance that you'll end up taking
off a lot of tiles and the tiles take the plaster with them, and when
you've got the tiles off the plaster above the tiles will be disturbed.
Long story short, you may have to get some plastering, re-tiling and
repainting done too.

Getting the old surface out, there's mileage in chemically removing the
sealant, grinding out the grout then cutting a bevel on the back edge to
minimise disruption to the existing tiles; do this before unscrewing the
surfaces from the carcasses.

>Tools I reckon I need: circular saw, jigsaw, drill, screwdriver,
>wrench - anything else?

As mentioned elsewhere, you'll also need a jig and a long-throw 1/2"
chuck router. Use a new, sharp bit for each cut. If you look at the
join, one cut will be into the laminate and the other out of; the out of
will tend to chip if you've not got a sharp bit.

Related; cut the joints before you cut the length - on mine the joint
chipped twice and I was glad to be able to then cut to length
afterwards, rather than going to buy a new chunk of work surface.
--
Gyp
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	#1
Gyp	Re: ot: foak: kitchen worksurface replacement In message <n6ooa39b49bgoi6664u789hsc2sqvtj2l3@4ax.com>, darsy <darsy@sticky.co.uk> writes >Any pointers for how difficult a job it is to replace the worksurfaces >and sink/taps only? Did that all myself, with help from a couple of mates. Mitre cutting the surfaces is tricky and time consuming, but not that bad. Make sure you leave enough clearance round the sink for the fixings that hold it in place; offer the sink up and check the fixings before putting the sealant on the surface in case you need to take it out and shave a little more off of the opening. >I presume it's just a matter of unscrewing the old bits and cutting >new ones to fit - or am I missing something? Yes, no and see below. What's on the walls at the moment - typically it'll be tiles (which are great for covering up a multitude of alignment sins). Have you got the same tiles? Unless you have spares, you will break a couple getting the old surface out. Whatever, there's a chance that you'll end up taking off a lot of tiles and the tiles take the plaster with them, and when you've got the tiles off the plaster above the tiles will be disturbed. Long story short, you may have to get some plastering, re-tiling and repainting done too. Getting the old surface out, there's mileage in chemically removing the sealant, grinding out the grout then cutting a bevel on the back edge to minimise disruption to the existing tiles; do this before unscrewing the surfaces from the carcasses. >Tools I reckon I need: circular saw, jigsaw, drill, screwdriver, >wrench - anything else? As mentioned elsewhere, you'll also need a jig and a long-throw 1/2" chuck router. Use a new, sharp bit for each cut. If you look at the join, one cut will be into the laminate and the other out of; the out of will tend to chip if you've not got a sharp bit. Related; cut the joints before you cut the length - on mine the joint chipped twice and I was glad to be able to then cut to length afterwards, rather than going to buy a new chunk of work surface. -- Gyp Change to dotcom to reply