sweller

JB wrote:

> Although the scoring looks pretty bad I'd clean it all up and get the
> micrometers on the pistons. Check for ovality (specs are in the Good
> Book). If the nikasil is in any way damaged, bin the barrells.

It has LM I iron barrels at the moment. I have the old (good) T3 nikasil
barrels it had originally.


> The cam followers are
> a dead give away though: Crap oil. What's the cam like......? As you
> seem to like giving the old girl a bit of stick and these engines do
> run hot, only use fully synthetic 10w50 or 20w50 and change it every
> 2500-3000miles. When was the last time you changed the spin on filter
> inside the sump? Also as previously suggested, check the oil pump very
> well for wear.

I change the oil every 3000 (ish) miles, the filter every third change
(as you know the book says five but even I think that's pushing it).

I use semi-synth SL 15/50. The cam will get closer examination tomorrow.

--
Simon

JB

"sweller" <sweller@mztech.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:xn0f9fzzgt0zcu008@news.individual.net...
> JB wrote:
>
>> Although the scoring looks pretty bad I'd clean it all up and get the
>> micrometers on the pistons. Check for ovality (specs are in the Good
>> Book). If the nikasil is in any way damaged, bin the barrells.
>
> It has LM I iron barrels at the moment. I have the old (good) T3 nikasil
> barrels it had originally.
>
Ah ok. I was confused there. First off, I think a good intensive measuring
session is in order, both pistons _and_ barrells. Don't piss about with
vernier calipers for the pistons, use proper micrometers. The bores will
need proper bore guages and a micrometer to suit. As these are not cheap or
daily use tools for mere mortals, find a good old fashioned general
engineers, a toolmaker or a reboring firm who might make these measurments
for you for beer or hire you the tools (don't hold your breath on the last).
Colleges are also good for these things.
Only when you've got the correct measuerments can you make a diagnosis and
see what is salvegable.

>> The cam followers are
>> a dead give away though: Crap oil. What's the cam like......? As you
>> seem to like giving the old girl a bit of stick and these engines do
>> run hot, only use fully synthetic 10w50 or 20w50 and change it every
>> 2500-3000miles. When was the last time you changed the spin on filter
>> inside the sump? Also as previously suggested, check the oil pump very
>> well for wear.
>
> I change the oil every 3000 (ish) miles, the filter every third change
> (as you know the book says five but even I think that's pushing it).

> I use semi-synth SL 15/50. The cam will get closer examination tomorrow.
>
Agree fully with the above and follow the same intervals/procedures.
(although personally I only use the fully synth stuff).
I would now be seriously looking at the oil pump and pressure relief vavle
in the sump.

JB

Wicked Uncle Nigel

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, JB
<JB@Nospam.co.uk> typed
>>
>Ah ok. I was confused there. First off, I think a good intensive measuring
>session is in order, both pistons _and_ barrells. Don't piss about with
>vernier calipers for the pistons, use proper micrometers. The bores will
>need proper bore guages and a micrometer to suit. As these are not cheap or
>daily use tools for mere mortals, find a good old fashioned general
>engineers, a toolmaker or a reboring firm who might make these measurments
>for you for beer or hire you the tools (don't hold your breath on the last).
>Colleges are also good for these things.
>Only when you've got the correct measuerments can you make a diagnosis and
>see what is salvegable.

I can supply bore gauges and micrometers.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (Fallen apart) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Honda ST1100 wiv trailer Norton 850 Commando
Kawasaki GTR1400

Monz

"Wicked Uncle Nigel" <wun@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk> wrote in message
news:XX06WFYwmPsGJAYR@rcav8r.demon.co.uk...
> Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, JB
> <JB@Nospam.co.uk> typed
>>>
>>Ah ok. I was confused there. First off, I think a good intensive measuring
>>session is in order, both pistons _and_ barrells. Don't piss about with
>>vernier calipers for the pistons, use proper micrometers. The bores will
>>need proper bore guages and a micrometer to suit. As these are not cheap
>>or
>>daily use tools for mere mortals, find a good old fashioned general
>>engineers, a toolmaker or a reboring firm who might make these measurments
>>for you for beer or hire you the tools (don't hold your breath on the
>>last).
>>Colleges are also good for these things.
>>Only when you've got the correct measuerments can you make a diagnosis and
>>see what is salvegable.
>
> I can supply bore gauges and micrometers.

> Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"

> Kawasaki GTR1400

Just noticed the sig ) you kept that quiet or did I miss the post?


--
Monz
Suzuki GSXR1000 K6
[insert nickname here] @gsxr1000.co.uk
ANORAK#16 | BOTAFOT #135 | BREast#2 | MIRTTH#25 | BoB#16 | IBB#11 |
FNAR#1 KoTL |

The Older Gentleman

Wicked Uncle Nigel <wun@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk> wrote:

> I can supply bore gauges

Calibrated in MicroDes units?


--
K1100LT 955i 750SS CB400F CD250 CM200 SL125
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60
The bells, the bells.....

Wicked Uncle Nigel

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Monz
<see_sig@email.net> typed
>
>> Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"
>
>> Kawasaki GTR1400
>
>Just noticed the sig ) you kept that quiet or did I miss the post?

You missed the post. Picking it up Saturday.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (Fallen apart) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Honda ST1100 wiv trailer Norton 850 Commando
Kawasaki GTR1400

Glaarp

On 2 Aug, 06:43, chateau.murrayTAKETHIS...@dsl.pipex.com (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:
> Wicked Uncle Nigel <w...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk> wrote:
>
> > I can supply bore gauges
>
> Calibrated in MicroDes units?
>
> --
> K1100LT 955i 750SS CB400F CD250 CM200 SL125
> GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60
> The bells, the bells.....

<applaudes>

Good shot , Sir!

Hog

sweller wrote:
> JB wrote:
>
>> Although the scoring looks pretty bad I'd clean it all up and get the
>> micrometers on the pistons. Check for ovality (specs are in the Good
>> Book). If the nikasil is in any way damaged, bin the barrells.
>
> It has LM I iron barrels at the moment. I have the old (good) T3
> nikasil barrels it had originally.
>
>
>> The cam followers are
>> a dead give away though: Crap oil. What's the cam like......? As you
>> seem to like giving the old girl a bit of stick and these engines do
>> run hot, only use fully synthetic 10w50 or 20w50 and change it every
>> 2500-3000miles. When was the last time you changed the spin on filter
>> inside the sump? Also as previously suggested, check the oil pump
>> very well for wear.
>
> I change the oil every 3000 (ish) miles, the filter every third change
> (as you know the book says five but even I think that's pushing it).
>
> I use semi-synth SL 15/50. The cam will get closer examination
> tomorrow.

Could it have had badly contaminated fuel?

I'd be looking at the oil/pump system, the oilways/jets (if it has any) and
thinking about oil grades

--
Hog
'03 ST4S '96 Bastard12 '89 R100RS '81 XS650 '78 RD400