JRS

I've just been out to give my excellent condition 1986 GPZ1000RX a run and
noticed a melted side panel. Seems the tank has been leaking slightly over
the winter. I scratched away at where the tank paint was blisters and a 1mm
hole appeared. It is just outside of the under tank weld at the back of the
tank side. Is it a hopeless case and should I buy another or do you have any
suggestions about repair? I expect even if I but another second hand one
tanks of this age might all be subject to internal corrosion.

Thanks

Jon

JRS

"JRS" <something@f9.co.uk> wrote in message
news:440afb1b$0$70284$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net...
> I've just been out to give my excellent condition 1986 GPZ1000RX a run and
> noticed a melted side panel. Seems the tank has been leaking slightly over
> the winter. I scratched away at where the tank paint was blisters and a
> 1mm hole appeared. It is just outside of the under tank weld at the back
> of the tank side. Is it a hopeless case and should I buy another or do you
> have any suggestions about repair? I expect even if I but another second
> hand one tanks of this age might all be subject to internal corrosion.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jon
>

Just found this:

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232

anyone used this stuff?

Jon

The Older Gentleman

JRS <something@f9.co.uk> wrote:

> "JRS" <something@f9.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:440afb1b$0$70284$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net...
> > I've just been out to give my excellent condition 1986 GPZ1000RX a run and
> > noticed a melted side panel. Seems the tank has been leaking slightly over
> > the winter. I scratched away at where the tank paint was blisters and a
> > 1mm hole appeared. It is just outside of the under tank weld at the back
> > of the tank side. Is it a hopeless case and should I buy another or do you
> > have any suggestions about repair? I expect even if I but another second
> > hand one tanks of this age might all be subject to internal corrosion.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jon
> >
>
> Just found this:
>
> http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232
>
> anyone used this stuff?
>
All these magic gunks, sealants and unguents are really only stop-gaps
if a tank is seriously corroded. You have a choice - find another tank,
and as you say, it may be in the same condition, or hand the tank to a
professional repairer to have the corroded bits cut away and a new
section welded in, refinished and made good.

Which won't be cheap, of course.


--
Trophy 1200 750SS CB400F CD250 x2
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....

R.N. Robinson

"The Older Gentleman" <chateauSPAMKILL.murray@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in
message news:1hbqgdy.sdhpm41tb2ex8N%chateauSPAMKILL.murray @dsl.pipex.com...
> JRS <something@f9.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> "JRS" <something@f9.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:440afb1b$0$70284$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net...
>> > I've just been out to give my excellent condition 1986 GPZ1000RX a run
>> > and
>> > noticed a melted side panel. Seems the tank has been leaking slightly
>> > over
>> > the winter. I scratched away at where the tank paint was blisters and a
>> > 1mm hole appeared. It is just outside of the under tank weld at the
>> > back
>> > of the tank side. Is it a hopeless case and should I buy another or do
>> > you
>> > have any suggestions about repair? I expect even if I but another
>> > second
>> > hand one tanks of this age might all be subject to internal corrosion.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > Jon
>> >
>>
>> Just found this:
>>
>> http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232
>>
>> anyone used this stuff?
>>
> All these magic gunks, sealants and unguents are really only stop-gaps
> if a tank is seriously corroded. You have a choice - find another tank,
> and as you say, it may be in the same condition, or hand the tank to a
> professional repairer to have the corroded bits cut away and a new
> section welded in, refinished and made good.
>
> Which won't be cheap, of course.
>
>
You might be lucky and it's just one hole, in which case Plastic Padding
Chemical Metal or Leak-Fix (same stuff I think) will do the job if applied
to clean dry metal. If it is the whole tank going, then it obviously won't,
but it might help to keep you going until you find a better tank or a good
repairer.

Worth a try IMHO...

Ron Robinson

Timo Geusch

The Older Gentleman wrote:

> All these magic gunks, sealants and unguents are really only stop-gaps
> if a tank is seriously corroded. You have a choice - find another
> tank, and as you say, it may be in the same condition, or hand the
> tank to a professional repairer to have the corroded bits cut away
> and a new section welded in, refinished and made good.
>
> Which won't be cheap, of course.

Alternatively, having a tank welded by an unprofessional person is
supposedly one of the cheapest ways known to NASA to launch oneself
into orbit.

--
Timo Geusch
Morini Corsaro 125 | R1150GSA | CB450 K4 | XL250 Motosport x2| 900SSD
K75S BOTAFOF #33
The UKRMC FAQ: http://www.unixconsult.co.uk/bike/ukrmcfaq.html

Ken

JRS wrote:
> I've just been out to give my excellent condition 1986 GPZ1000RX a run and
> noticed a melted side panel. Seems the tank has been leaking slightly over
> the winter. I scratched away at where the tank paint was blisters and a 1mm
> hole appeared. It is just outside of the under tank weld at the back of the
> tank side. Is it a hopeless case and should I buy another or do you have any
> suggestions about repair? I expect even if I but another second hand one
> tanks of this age might all be subject to internal corrosion.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jon


Firstly clean out the inside of the tank as best you can and try to
remove all the loose rust (a handful of nuts and bolts, and a good
shake about works reasonably). Next get a hose and fill the tank with
CO from the exhaust of another bike or car.............then sand off
the paint from the areas that look dodgy.

After you have it the paint removed you will probably have quite a few
pin holes, in the bottom of the tank. However these can be easily
repaired with a fibreglass kit available from Halfords. After
fibreglass is fully hardened, you can finish it off with body filler,
and shape to blend in with rest of tank. Finally use something like
"Petseal" inside the tank, and other than painting the jobs done.

This is all a bit of a hassle to do, but is well worth it if you cant
get a good s/h tank, or dont want to pay someone around £200 for a pro
repair job.

k

Pip Luscher

On Sun, 05 Mar 2006 17:45:58 +0000, "Timo Geusch"
<tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> wrote:

>The Older Gentleman wrote:
>
>> All these magic gunks, sealants and unguents are really only stop-gaps
>> if a tank is seriously corroded. You have a choice - find another
>> tank, and as you say, it may be in the same condition, or hand the
>> tank to a professional repairer to have the corroded bits cut away
>> and a new section welded in, refinished and made good.
>>
>> Which won't be cheap, of course.
>
>Alternatively, having a tank welded by an unprofessional person is
>supposedly one of the cheapest ways known to NASA to launch oneself
>into orbit.

Nah. You just get big purply blue flame and a bang that makes the shed
walls rattle, immediately follwed by such awful shakes that one could
weld one's own signature in under a second.

Aparently.

--
-Pip

Grimly Curmudgeon

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Timo Geusch"
<tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> saying something like:

>Alternatively, having a tank welded by an unprofessional person is
>supposedly one of the cheapest ways known to NASA to launch oneself
>into orbit.

<shrug>

Flush it out well and fill it with water. Works fine.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

Folding@Home Team UKRM
http://vspx27.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/m...&teamnum=47957

Andy Wegg

"R.N. Robinson" wrote
> You might be lucky and it's just one hole, in which case Plastic Padding
> Chemical Metal or Leak-Fix (same stuff I think) will do the job if applied
> to clean dry metal.

This stuff works well in areas like the back corners of the tank, or
along a seam as you can pack it down against something rigid. It
doesn't work so well if it's just on a hole midway along a sidewall or
something as there's nothing for it to grip against. But it's worth
trying. The POR and Petseal type of fluids that you slosh inside the
tank don't work that well if the tank is already holed - they're more
for fixing light internal corrosion where flakes of rust are floating
about in the petrol and then gumming up the taps or carbs.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Timo Geusch

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

> We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
> drugs began to take hold. I remember "Timo Geusch"
> <tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> saying something like:
>
> > Alternatively, having a tank welded by an unprofessional person is
> > supposedly one of the cheapest ways known to NASA to launch oneself
> > into orbit.
>
> <shrug>
>
> Flush it out well and fill it with water. Works fine.

*I* know that. Actually the recommended way (at least to weld car
tanks) is to fill them up with water before you weld them...

--
Timo Geusch
Morini Corsaro 125 | R1150GSA | CB450 K4 | XL250 Motosport x2| 900SSD
K75S BOTAFOF #33
The UKRMC FAQ: http://www.unixconsult.co.uk/bike/ukrmcfaq.html

SpamTrapSeeSig

In article <xn0ejefrdhk3q001@nermal.unix-consult.com>, Timo Geusch
<tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> writes
>*I* know that. Actually the recommended way (at least to weld car
>tanks) is to fill them up with water before you weld them...

I've never quite understood this. Big bangs n'all you avoid, I can see,
but how do you actually fill it up?

After all, the reason you want to fix it is that the thing leaks...

Regards,

Simonm. (thicker than the average Usenetter)

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

Ken

Andy Wegg wrote:
> "R.N. Robinson" wrote
> > You might be lucky and it's just one hole, in which case Plastic Padding
> > Chemical Metal or Leak-Fix (same stuff I think) will do the job if applied
> > to clean dry metal.
>
> This stuff works well in areas like the back corners of the tank, or
> along a seam as you can pack it down against something rigid. It
> doesn't work so well if it's just on a hole midway along a sidewall or
> something as there's nothing for it to grip against. But it's worth
> trying. The POR and Petseal type of fluids that you slosh inside the
> tank don't work that well if the tank is already holed - they're more
> for fixing light internal corrosion where flakes of rust are floating
> about in the petrol and then gumming up the taps or carbs.
>
>
> --
> Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG


Posted yesterday advising the OP how to do an effective home repair on
his tank. I dont know whether its that helpful for someone who has to
pay others to work on his bikes, to offer opinions about something they
clearly are not familiar with?

k

Grimly Curmudgeon

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember SpamTrapSeeSig
<no-one@nospam.demon.co.uk> saying something like:

>In article <xn0ejefrdhk3q001@nermal.unix-consult.com>, Timo Geusch
><tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> writes
>>*I* know that. Actually the recommended way (at least to weld car
>>tanks) is to fill them up with water before you weld them...
>
>I've never quite understood this. Big bangs n'all you avoid, I can see,
>but how do you actually fill it up?
>
>After all, the reason you want to fix it is that the thing leaks...
>
>Regards,
>
>Simonm. (thicker than the average Usenetter)

Once it's full just bung it securely. If you're lucky, the original
petrol cap will seal properly with just a touch of gunge over the
breather pinhole, then orientate it for working on, with the leaky seam
uppermost.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

Folding@Home Team UKRM
http://vspx27.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/m...&teamnum=47957

SpamTrapSeeSig

In article <pl2p02dn2qg97r2p655g0s95p95ku4958b@4ax.com>, Grimly
Curmudgeon <grimlycurmudgeon683REMOVE@hotmail.com> writes
>Once it's full just bung it securely. If you're lucky, the original
>petrol cap will seal properly with just a touch of gunge over the
>breather pinhole, then orientate it for working on, with the leaky seam
>uppermost.

Fairy nuff. Have a nasty feeling I'll be using that advice shortly...

Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

Grimly Curmudgeon

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember SpamTrapSeeSig
<no-one@nospam.demon.co.uk> saying something like:

>In article <pl2p02dn2qg97r2p655g0s95p95ku4958b@4ax.com>, Grimly
>Curmudgeon <grimlycurmudgeon683REMOVE@hotmail.com> writes
>>Once it's full just bung it securely. If you're lucky, the original
>>petrol cap will seal properly with just a touch of gunge over the
>>breather pinhole, then orientate it for working on, with the leaky seam
>>uppermost.
>
>Fairy nuff. Have a nasty feeling I'll be using that advice shortly...
>
If you're not too worried about appearance and just want a leakfree tank
until you find a proper replacement, you can employ the fibreglass art.
It works well if properly prepared.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

Folding@Home Team UKRM
http://vspx27.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/m...&teamnum=47957

Rusty Hinge 2

The message <xn0ejdj9c8g57000@nermal.unix-consult.com>
from "Timo Geusch" <tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> contains these words:
> The Older Gentleman wrote:

> > All these magic gunks, sealants and unguents are really only stop-gaps
> > if a tank is seriously corroded. You have a choice - find another
> > tank, and as you say, it may be in the same condition, or hand the
> > tank to a professional repairer to have the corroded bits cut away
> > and a new section welded in, refinished and made good.
> >
> > Which won't be cheap, of course.

> Alternatively, having a tank welded by an unprofessional person is
> supposedly one of the cheapest ways known to NASA to launch oneself
> into orbit.

The usual way used to be to clean back to bare metal round the hole,
fill the tank with sand, make a slight indent round the hole using a
ball-peine hammer as a punch, and filling the depression with solder.

Even soldering a tank full of fumes could (theoretically) do the NASA bit.

--
Rusty
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk
Separator in search of a sig

The Older Gentleman

Rusty Hinge 2 <rusty.hinge@gruel.invalid.co.uk> wrote:

> The message <xn0ejdj9c8g57000@nermal.unix-consult.com>
> from "Timo Geusch" <tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> contains these words:
> > The Older Gentleman wrote:
>
> > > All these magic gunks, sealants and unguents are really only stop-gaps
> > > if a tank is seriously corroded. You have a choice - find another
> > > tank, and as you say, it may be in the same condition, or hand the
> > > tank to a professional repairer to have the corroded bits cut away
> > > and a new section welded in, refinished and made good.
> > >
> > > Which won't be cheap, of course.
>
> > Alternatively, having a tank welded by an unprofessional person is
> > supposedly one of the cheapest ways known to NASA to launch oneself
> > into orbit.
>
> The usual way used to be to clean back to bare metal round the hole,
> fill the tank with sand, make a slight indent round the hole using a
> ball-peine hammer as a punch, and filling the depression with solder.
>
> Even soldering a tank full of fumes could (theoretically) do the NASA bit.

Hang the tank on the end of the car exhaust - the exhaust poking through
the filler hole, if it'll fit. If not, use a hosepipe. Run for 10-15
minutes. The gases purge the tank of all fumes.


--
Trophy 1200 750SS CB400F CD250 x2
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....

platypus

The Older Gentleman wrote:
> Rusty Hinge 2 <rusty.hinge@gruel.invalid.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> The message <xn0ejdj9c8g57000@nermal.unix-consult.com>
>> from "Timo Geusch" <tnewsSPAMMENOT@unix-consult.com> contains these
>> words:
>>> The Older Gentleman wrote:
>>
>>>> All these magic gunks, sealants and unguents are really only
>>>> stop-gaps if a tank is seriously corroded. You have a choice -
>>>> find another tank, and as you say, it may be in the same
>>>> condition, or hand the tank to a professional repairer to have the
>>>> corroded bits cut away and a new section welded in, refinished and
>>>> made good.
>>>>
>>>> Which won't be cheap, of course.
>>
>>> Alternatively, having a tank welded by an unprofessional person is
>>> supposedly one of the cheapest ways known to NASA to launch oneself
>>> into orbit.
>>
>> The usual way used to be to clean back to bare metal round the hole,
>> fill the tank with sand, make a slight indent round the hole using a
>> ball-peine hammer as a punch, and filling the depression with solder.
>>
>> Even soldering a tank full of fumes could (theoretically) do the
>> NASA bit.
>
> Hang the tank on the end of the car exhaust - the exhaust poking
> through the filler hole, if it'll fit. If not, use a hosepipe. Run
> for 10-15 minutes. The gases purge the tank of all fumes.

Or just poke the torch in through the filler hole for a few seconds.

--
platypus

we can do all the bad things

Andy Wegg

"Rusty Hinge 2" wrote
> The usual way used to be to clean back to bare metal round the hole,
> fill the tank with sand, make a slight indent round the hole using a
> ball-peine hammer as a punch, and filling the depression with solder.

This is how my Morini tank was fixed. So far it seems to have worked...


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Andy Wegg

"The Older Gentleman" wrote>
> Hang the tank on the end of the car exhaust - the exhaust poking through
> the filler hole, if it'll fit. If not, use a hosepipe. Run for 10-15
> minutes. The gases purge the tank of all fumes.



Heh. A bloke my brother knows managed to set the tank lines alight on a
Reliant while he was welding the chassis. The car caught fire and then
basically melted into his inspection pit.... and then _set_!


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

'Hog

Andy Wegg wrote:
> "Rusty Hinge 2" wrote
>> The usual way used to be to clean back to bare metal round the hole,
>> fill the tank with sand, make a slight indent round the hole using a
>> ball-peine hammer as a punch, and filling the depression with solder.
>
> This is how my Morini tank was fixed. So far it seems to have
> worked...

Solder or brazing in fact, should be fine if the rest of the metal is
good.
As GC suggested Glass fibre, with a good overlap past the hole, works
but brazing is so easy why compromise.
I'm surprised Pip hasn't been along yet to say "Belzoa"

--
'Hog
'96 Bastard B12 '89 R100RS '81 XS650 '78 RD400

Ken

Andy Wegg wrote:
> "Rusty Hinge 2" wrote
> > The usual way used to be to clean back to bare metal round the hole,
> > fill the tank with sand, make a slight indent round the hole using a
> > ball-peine hammer as a punch, and filling the depression with solder.
>
> This is how my Morini tank was fixed. So far it seems to have worked...
>
>
> --
> Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Thing is Andy, did you do the repair yourself or pay someone to do it
for you?..............I think I can guess the answer................lol

k

Rusty Hinge 2

The message <52df9bf0628a6e935b6fa7ca7184ca68.20410@mygate.mai lgate.org>
from "Andy Wegg" <andrew_wegg@hotmail.com> contains these words:

> Heh. A bloke my brother knows managed to set the tank lines alight on a
> Reliant while he was welding the chassis. The car caught fire and then
> basically melted into his inspection pit.... and then _set_!
>

That unforges me of a time long ago when one of my fiends was an
apprentice, or a recently time-served fitter at Plessey's, and one of
his mates asked him if he could use his old man's pit.

Ken said OK, but they wouldn't be there over the weekend, but the key
was always left under that brick...

He got back and a delighted neighbour described the scene: bod drives up
to garage and opens the gates, opens the garage doors, and drives in -
forwards - in a Reliant...

--
Rusty
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk
Separator in search of a sig

Rusty Hinge 2

The message <4751kkFdo7h2U1@individual.net>
from "'Hog" <hogSPAM&@freenetCHIPS.co.uk> contains these words:

> I'm surprised Pip hasn't been along yet to say "Belzoa"
>

I'm sure he wouldn't be so rude.

Amoeba say - protozoa is one thing...

--
Rusty
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk
Separator in search of a sig

Ken

Andy Wegg wrote:
> "Rusty Hinge 2" wrote
> > The usual way used to be to clean back to bare metal round the hole,
> > fill the tank with sand, make a slight indent round the hole using a
> > ball-peine hammer as a punch, and filling the depression with solder.
>
> This is how my Morini tank was fixed. So far it seems to have worked...
>
>
> --
> Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG


Wonder what sort of solder sticks to sand?..............More eggsucking
eh Andy.................lol

k

The Older Gentleman

Rusty Hinge 2 <rusty.hinge@gruel.invalid.co.uk> wrote:

> The message <52df9bf0628a6e935b6fa7ca7184ca68.20410@mygate.mai lgate.org>
> from "Andy Wegg" <andrew_wegg@hotmail.com> contains these words:
>
> > Heh. A bloke my brother knows managed to set the tank lines alight on a
> > Reliant while he was welding the chassis. The car caught fire and then
> > basically melted into his inspection pit.... and then _set_!
> >
>
> That unforges me of a time long ago when one of my fiends was an
> apprentice, or a recently time-served fitter at Plessey's, and one of
> his mates asked him if he could use his old man's pit.
>
> Ken said OK, but they wouldn't be there over the weekend, but the key
> was always left under that brick...
>
> He got back and a delighted neighbour described the scene: bod drives up
> to garage and opens the gates, opens the garage doors, and drives in -
> forwards - in a Reliant...

ROFLMAO

That's given the biggest laugh ever on this ng.


--
Trophy 1200 750SS CB400F CD250 x2
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....