The Puppy Wizard

"Leah" <dfrntdrums@aol.comMURK-OFF> wrote in message
news:20041008152906.08741.00001647@mb-m13.aol.com...
> >pixiefox@msn.com (eroschaos) wrote:
> >
> >I have a 4 year old silky terrier and two cats. I work during
the day
> >so puppy says home with the kitties. I was thinking about
getting
> >another dog as a companion for her. Is this a good idea, or
would it
> >just stress her out? She does not seem to have separation
anxiety and
> >she does play with the cats, but I thought another dog would be
better
> >company for her. She is not around other dogs often, but my
family
> >has a yellow lab so when we visit she tries to play with her,
but
> >thier dog is a little too big. I would appreciate any thoughts
or
> >suggestions on this one. Thanks to all in advance...
>
> If you're ready (emotionally and financially) to take on a 4th
pet, it may work
> out fine. I would suggest that you contact a rescue group and
look for a male
> who is at least a year old, and who is proven to be good with
cats. Let them
> meet on neutral territory, and see what happens.
>
> Canine Action Dog Trainer
> http://www.canineaction.com

HOWEDY leah,

"Leah" <dfrntdrums@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041031121238.03319.00002177@mb-m25.aol.com...
> >Tara taragreen2@verizon.net wrote:
>
> > I think you might be missing a good opportunity
> > here Leah. While I agree that fundamentally it
> > IS o.c., it might be worth your while to mentally
> > suss out *why* the type that I described (and what
> > Lee went on to discuss) only takes a minimal
> > amount of reps....sometimes just one.

What's MOORE important is what Lee SEZ abHOWET
"NO BAD DOGS, ONLY BAD TRAINERS." THAT'S the
PROBLEM taragreen2. Lee's been say that every thing
you THINK you know abHOWET trainin is DEAD WRONG
and he's PROVED IT to any intelligent reasonable thinking
being above the age of four years old with a basic grasp
of English.

> Actually, I'm not missing it.

leah dosesn't have the INTELLECT to HOWEtwit
the cunning of the domestic puppy dog or she
wouldn't NEED to bribe hurt crate intimimidate
and FAIL to train EVERY dog she works with
NEARLY INSTANTLY.

> It's exactly why I'm still in this discussion;

Ask taragreen2 abHOWET her LEAVE IT command.

She won't answer.

> why I got reamed by Jack

There's no jack here, leah. jack morrison is an
anonyamHOWES lying dog abusing mentally
ill coward who hurts and murders dogs. His
real name is tommy sorenson, puppymiller.

> at one point for trying to understand what
> Lee was saying.

tommy will do and say ANY THING to defend
his alleged right to hurt intimidate and murder
dogs and queers.

> And it's why I've said, more than once,

You sez you only got bit WON time too...

> that I'm interested in hearing *your* ideas about it.

Ask taragreen2 for her LEAVE IT command. After
all, this thread IS abHWOET C-HOWENTER SURFIN.

AIN'T IT.

You got NO METHOD for breakin C-HOWENTER SURFIN.
Margaret Hoffman's dog Chelsea was broken of an eight
year habit of C-HOWENTER SURFIN and C-HOWECH
sleepin in a few minutes withHOWET hurting bribing or
intimidating or HIDING the weenie.

> I certainly do see the benefit in harnessing basic drives,

You don't understand what drives are or HOWE to use them.
Lucy learned MOORE abHOWET drives from WON session
than you'll EVER have the intellect to figger HOWET.

> like prey drive,

You mean like HOWE COME your RECENT GRADUATE
STUDENT Rotte RECENTLY MURDERED a little DEAD
DOG in the park, leah?

> and using them as rewards.

THAT'S INSANE, leah. You cannot REWARD a
a PAST BEHAVIOR. If the dog ain't DOIN or THINKIN
of DOIN a behavior your "REWARD" is goin for a
TOTALLY irrelevent thought!

> What I don't understand is *how* to do so,

Dogs don't REFLECT on their work. You've got
to learn HOWE dogs THINK and work with their
normal natural instinctive reflexive behaviors.

> and have heard nothing from Lee that
> makes this any more understandable.

THAT'S on accHOWENT of you don't understand
the nature of dogs, leah. You understand fear force
avoidance intimidation and murdering dogs you're
AFRAID to HURT and INTIMIDATE.

> Surely praise in itself is not motivating enough
> to distract a dog from chasing a squirrel up a
> tree,

Right. But it'll make the dog RELAX and take
him HOWETA PRAY DRIVE, leah. It's kinda
like a SWITCH (not the hickory WON used by
Retriever and SAR trainers). A switch cannot
be ON and OFF at the same time.

> and certainly telling students to stop a dog's
> nipping by encouraging mouthing

MHOWETHING is a BONDING behavior, leah.
THAT'S what The Amazing Puppy Wizard MEANT
when HE sez you don't UNDERSTAND the NATURE
of dogs, leah. You only know what motivates you;
fear force intimidation bribery and a hiding place.

> is a baaaad idea,

No leah. Takin anti psychotropic medications
is a BAAAD idea. Trainin a dog to BOND by
NOT REJECTING him is a GOOD idea. Perhaps
if your momma hadn't left you on the floor cryin
you'd know HOWE to make a dog FEEL SAFE
enough to TRUST the HOWES KAT or BUNNY
and not MURDER IT.

> along with encouraging their dogs to jump up on them.

Lee uses jumping up as a BONDING behavior
through which he can HARNESS the PACT
INSTINCTS and put the dogs to WORK.

>I also don't agree that *any* method or technique
> will work with *every* dog,

It cannot, unless it's in harmony with Natural Law.
That's where the Alphalpha Theory came from. Only
PROBLEM is, the Alphalpha Theory is FLAWED
with human FEELINGS and fails to consider the
CONSEQUENCES of NATURE.

> as Lee states (and it doesn't help that the only
> other person who makes this assertion is a known
> lunatic).

Yeah. The Amazing Puppy Wizard's 100% CONSISTENTLY
NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual Students all over the
Whole Wild World REPORT 100% NEARLY INSTANT
SUCCESS for ALL problems and ALL behaviors in ALL
fields and disciplines, leah.

YOU CALL THEM LIARS. REMEMBER?

> I've given up on trying to get any real
> value out of his assertions,

On accHOWENT of you can't believe that ALL
dogs can be TRAINED NEARLY INSTANTLY
by simply NOT DOIN every thing you do and teach.

BWEEEEEEEEEEEHAHAHAHAAAAA!!!

> since you apparently need a special dictionary to
> converse with him (i.e., "I know that's how most
> people use the terminology, but I have my own
> definitions").

Looks like we're into too many words again.
You ain't gettin it both ways noMOORE.

> Statements like "puppy classes are detrimental
> to learning" or "all critical socialization takes place
> in the litter" certainly don't help him with his credibility.

It'd abHOWET put you HOWETA business if it was true.

> At this point, he could say, "The sky is blue"
> and I'd have to look outside to see if it was true.

Ask taragreen2 for her LEAVE IT command.

> But you do have credibility,

Ask taragreen2 for her LEAVE IT command.

> so I'd certainly be interested in continuing
> this discussion with you.

INDEEDY.

Perhaps between the two of you you'll figger
HOWET HOWE to train Macula not to steal
food off the C-HOWENTER.

> Canine Action Dog Trainer
> http://www.canineaction.com

Respect, Trust, Pack Leadership, Dominance

Paul B <panders@zfree.co.nz> wrote in message
news:3c638e36@clear.net.nz...

>> > "James Roberts" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
>> > news:3C637444.20DD6735@privacy.net...
> > I have downloaded and have read Jerry's Wit's End
> > document. Ignoring what you think of his participation,
> > what is your assessment of the merits of his
> > techniques?

Hello James,

I have used his recommended techniques and ideas
with great success, and over the period I've used these
methods the more I've become to understand and
appreciate how his methods work and how effective
they can be if carried out correctly.

His manual isn't conventional and as such gets
critisized and misunderstood. The basic concept
is to allow the dog to choose whatever behaviour
it wants for any situation but to distract (and
immediately praise ) it from behaviours we deem
undesirable, because of the correctly timed
distractions repeated usually about 4 times (in
each location) the dog decides of it own accord
that this behaviour is undesriable and therefore
pursues something else, if that behaviour is also
inappropriate to us then we carry on distracting,
very soon the dog finds a behaviour that is mutually
acceptable.

The benefits of this type of approach are numerous,
Firstly we aren't challenging the dog so there is no
conflict so the dog does't develop any possible negativity
to us, the dog decides of it own free will that a behaviour
is unsatisfying so chooses to cease it (in other words
even if we are gone the dog won't have any desire to
pursue that behaviour i.e. bin raiding etc).

I would recommend his manual.

Paul

=========================

From: Paul B (panders@zfree.co.nz)
Subject: Re: Can pack leader influence rank?
Date: 2002-02-25 00:51:48 PST

I use sound to distract the dog and praise it immediately.
The reason for the immediate praise is that as soon as
the dog is distracted it's no longer thinking of the
inappropriate behaviour so the praise reinforces the
"not doing" the unwanted behaviour.

I use various sound sources, a soda can with stones
in it, car keys, Click my fingers, etc. Varying the direction
of the sound each time is important too, otherwise the
dog may begin to anticipate the sound and it will lose
it's effect, if the noise direction is random the dog won't
get too familiar with it and it will remain an effective
distraction.

Remember too that we aren't trying to scare the bejesus
outta the dog, simply breaking it's train of thought while
it's thinking of the unwanted behaviour.

Sometimes you won't even see a reaction but the dog
will have been distracted fleetingly. (Recently one of
my dogs started habitually licking my feet while I was
watching TV, I clicked my fingers on her left side and
told her "good girl" even though she only paused her
licking briefly, next I clicked over her right side and
praised, by about the 4th repeat she suddenly stopped,
I repeated this over a few nights and now she doesn't
lick any more, on the few occasions she absent mindedly
licks now all I do is click and praise and she immediately
stops).

Timing is important too, learn to anticipate when the
dog is thinking about doing the "dirty deed" and distract
and praise then, with any luck the dog will try again almost
immediately so distract and praise again, if the timing is
correct after about the 4th rep the dog will stop.

I could go on but this post is long enough already,
remember too that the dog isn't being a "bad dog",
it's behaviour is simply inappropriate for the circumstances.

Happy training, :-)

Paul

==========================

Subject: Re: Leadership and hieracy. And Tit For Tat...
Date: 2003-02-26 18:24:01 PST

HOWEDY Disciple Paulie,

Paul B wrote:

> I was having a discussion the other day about
> leadership and hierarchy in the home environment.

Right... dog pack, Scout Pack, family pack, military
platoon, it's all the same same same same...

> I'm a firm believer that setting the hierarchy is very
> important in order to be able to train a dog and also
> to solve behaviour problems, anxieties etc.

Right. That's HOWE COME we don't have disobedience
or fighting in the ranks.

> I think that how we behave when the dog is about
> whether we are addressing the dog or not contributes
> to our dogs view of us.

Right. That's HOWE COME the military doesn't
permit fraternization between officers and enlisted
personnel. That's HOWE COME companies have
executive toilets and cafeterias and the military has
enlisted and officers and NCO'S clubs, and families
have children's play rooms, adult bedrooms, and
common areas where neither sort have priority over
the HOWES rules.

> We were discussing how a persons personality
> affects the way the dog views and respects them.

Right. That's HOWE COME food bribes USURP the
handler's authority. The dog is working for a tangible
item, not respect for the pack rules.

Bribes teach GREED, not comaraderie.

> I argued that it's no use trying to impress the dog
> with your leadership abilities if in other areas you
> don't show the same.

Right. Same same as the reasons behind restricting
fraternization.

Makes sense in business too. The rules are about
the same same same same for your dogs, kids,
spouses, employee's and employers. We must
never use force fear confrontation, or HOWER
AUTHORITY to enforce HOWER WILL.

That's HOWE COME we train the come command
as a conditioned reflex, there's no choice in the matter,
it's strictly reflex. Any command can be trained as a
CR, but we don't want to do that because it would
inhibit the dog's THINKING and ability and desire to
RATIONALIZE, and SOLVE PROBLEMS and use
his senses to do his job to the best of his ability.

That's not to say we don't be PALS, just that there's a
certain modicum of respect for WON another that must
always be followed to insure strict discipline and proper
authority.

THAT'S what makes for RESPECT.

IOW, we DON'T WANT TOTAL CONTROL based
solely on REFLEX, because we want the dog to
WILLINGLY WANT TO DO AS WE ASK, even if
it's NOT EXXXACTLY HOWE WE ULTIMATELY
WANT HIM TO BEHAVE.

We're walking a middle line between total unthinking
response, and total COOPERATIVE EFFORT.

When cooperation fails, we reinstill HOWER authority
by pulling rank, IOW, using the come command as
leverage to subordinate the dog, and then return him
to the heel or PARTNERSHIP position, where he can
start off again as a partner, not a subordinate.

So we're DELEGATING AUTHORITY, in a sense,
and we intervene with a come command when the
dog exceeds his bounds or fails to achieve, and
start over again till the behaviors are LEARNED
PUPPERLY and the dog is a WILLING WORKER.

Then the dog will NEVER question HOWER requests,
cause to do otherWIZE would be contraWIZE, to borrow
a term from HOWER professor SCRUFF SHAKE.

> For instance lets say you do exercises etc with the
> dog to set the hierarchy and act all in control in front
> it but are disorganized, easily flustered, indecisive,
> intimidated by others, etc in other aspects of your life.

That would likely make the dog overly protective...
like if some mugger was disturbing your XYL... you'd
automatically THUMP him. HOWEver, if the XYL had
TOTAL CONTROL and showed the mugger up to be
a CHUMP, you'd stand there laughin your @$$ of at them
and give her a hug when she's finished dispatching IT.

> My view is the dog is always observing you

Every last detail. My dogs know if I take off my
reading glasses and leave my desk, I'm fixin to
be away for a few minutes and they'll follow. If I
step away from my desk wearing my glasses,
I'm just goin to a file to find somethin and return
to work, so they remain where they are cause
they know I'm not goin nowhere noHOWE.

> and will see you for what you really are -

Right. Dogs are not so EZ to FOOL as PEOPLE are.

> not a worthy leader in this example despite your
> attempts to convince the dog otherwise when
> your are one to one.

Right. The Puppy Wizzzard tries to find the middle
line, so the dog will be concerned about what's goin
on, yet not overly concerned and still confident of
their position and regard for their leadership.

It's a delicate balance between being totally in control,
and totally out of control. That's HOWE COME dogs
protect HOWErselves.

A STRONG, IRON WILLED LEADER NEEDS NO PROTECTION. An
INTELLIGENT, FRAGILE, leader
NEEDS CONSTANT PROTECTION... so, we WANT
the dog to THINK we're AFRAID of things that go BUMP
in the nite.

We WANT HOWER dogs to believe we're delicate,
so they won't rougHOWES us.

> My observations seem to confirm this too,

INDEEDY.

> watching people with their dogs at parks etc, the
> more confident people seem to have better control
> of their dogs and better> behaved dogs than
> apparently less confident people.

Same same for military and businesses and family
and scouting...

That's HOWE COME The Puppy Wizzzard's FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual Students
get BETTER CONTROL when their dogs are OFF LEAD,
than when they're restricted on lead.

The dog senses the TRUST and CONFIDENCE
the handler has placed on them to DO as they're
REQUESTED, despite that there's no apparent
means of CORRECTING MISTAKES. That makes
the dog FEEL GOOD about working and paying
attention and DOIN as he's ASKED.

HOWEVER, WONce the dog is ORDERED to DO
something, the trust and confidence are eroded and
the dog is MOORE likely to challenge HOWER authority
and will UNDOUBTEDLY fail to do the command, cause
he's gonna challenge your authority if he feels put upon,
and will be unwilling to comply, forcing the handler to
take action to regain control and ENFORCE HIS WILL.

WONce we get into a battle of the wills, the dog wins
in EVERY situation where we cannot force control.

> Not absolutely but just generally.

Well, we're talking about VERY SUBTLE effects
having BIG influences on ALL HOWER RELATIONSHIPS.

Like the chain of command in the military must never
be broken, we can establish similar rules for HOWER
behavior which will be followed by everyWON in the
PACK, be it family, dog, scouts, business, or military
command.

> If I'm correct then is it possible our dogs obedience
> and behaviors etc are reflecting our self confidences?

ABSOLUTELY. Hesitating while giving commands,
waiting for the last command to be followed etc,
detract from the dog's sense of confidence in us,
and shows him we're UNCERTAIN as to HIS
willingness to FOLLOW COMMANDS, just as it
makes kids or wives or employees and employers
say NO!

> Paul

WONCE we learn HOWE to ESTABLISH the proper
degree of CONTROL,

HOWER charges will follow suite because it's the
MOST NATURAL THING TO DO. We NEVER
QUESTION pupper authority. HOWEver, if we go
over or under, we have FIGHTING in the ranks,
MUTINY, and DESERTION.

NOW there's only TWO questions remaining: HOWE
do we instill pupper discipline without repression to
elicit 100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL just
like a military unit with HOWER dogs, kids, spouses,
employee's, employer's, and governments?

AND HOWE COME The Puppy Wizzzard NEVER
FOLLOWED HIS OWN RULES HERE ON HOWER
FORUM, KNOWING FULL WELL, TO DO OTHERWIZE
WILL CERTAINLY CAUSE DISSENT, FIGHTING, HATRED, ANGER, EVEN
DEATH?

The First question is ANSWERED IN FULL in your
FREE copy of The Puppy Wizzzard's FREE WWW
Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual.

The SECOND question is answered in reading
HOWER forum... FIGGER IT OUT. The Puppy
Wizzzard came here to IDENTIFY, EXXXPOSE,
DISCREDIT, and DESTROY the lying dog abusing
Punk Thug Cowards we got here who INTENTIONALLY
HURT DOGS to ENFORCE THEIR WILL AND WILL
GLADLY KILL A BAD DOG, TO BE FAIR.

Kinda tit for tat, Disciple Paulie... It's a HARD LESSON,
for SHORE, but a NECESSARY WON, given the state
of the art here abouts.

Your Puppy Wizzzard. <}TPW : ~ { >

Here's Disciple Paulie's reply to roo (alikat) when she
LIED and said The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual is DANGERHOWES
and INEFFECTIVE:

"Paul B" <panders@zfree.co.nz> wrote in message
news:3c2ae204@clear.net.nz...

> Bollocks, the manual has no dangerous suggestions at
> all, people who find the manual useful are those that
> don't need to control a dog to satisfy their own ego
> but simply want a well behaved dog that is easy to
> live with.
>
> I would suggest the people who follow the
> advice in his manual are people who have already
> tried other inefficient methods and are fed up with
> the poor results.
>
> The more I think about the methods he suggests the
> more sense it makes, the biggest problem is people
> believe they have to be in control of the dog, tell it
> whats right and wrong, dogs don't understand
> our values and I don't believe they are capable of
> understanding them either, so to train them we use
> methods they understand.
>
> That means abstract training, doing sometimes what
> appears to > almost be the opposite of what makes
> sense to us.
>
> If you are purely result orientated then you will not
> find Jerry's manual much use, if you love your dogs
> and love to work WITH them then his manual is
> your dream come true. Distraction and praise works
> with any dog, when you sit back and really think about
> it, it's very obvious why.
>
> When a dog is properly distracted (and praised) of a
> particular behaviour then that behaviour very quickly
> becomes unfulfilling so the dog will no longer have any
> interest in pursuing it, whether we are about or not,
> thats the key to stopping garbage can raids and food
> stealing etc etc, no force, no bad dog, just distracting it
> in an appropriate manner that it no longer wishes to
> pursue that behaviour.
>
> Better than hiding the garbage can eh?
>
> Paul

=======================


Subject: Re: Get off the bed... please?

Paul B (NOSPAMpaulbousie@clear.net.nz)
Subject: Good dogs!!! bad dogs.??
Date: 2000/10/21

Something occurred this morning that made me think how
we treat our dogs and what expectations we have of them.

Because it was a Saturday we slept in and the dogs
eventually jumped up on the bed on my wife's side. After
a brief greeting she very abruptly demanded they get down,
"OFF THE BED" she insisted, Sam looked at her perplexed,
so she repeated the "order", so Sam tried to lick her face,
"GET OFF" she said abruptly.

Sam got down but was unsure what he had done wrong. After
a bit they both came over and jumped up on my side, I patted
them etc and eventually asked them to get down, "off the bed,
good dogs" and they hopped off immediately with no prob's.

Eileen asked me why they obey me and not her so easily.
I told her they got down for me because I asked them to,
they know the command "off the bed" or "off anything" so
there is no need to demand it of them, ask them and they
will comply, demand it and they get confused because
they think you are annoyed with them but they don't know
why so they try to "make amends" which is why Sam licked her.

I have found giving dogs "payment" in advance i.e. "Sam
sit goodboy" makes the dogs want to respond, after all, all
dogs want to be "good dogs" and if you tell them they are
good then they feel an obligation to obey your request.

Telling Sam he's a good dog after he sit's apart from been too
late is also a gamble because if he doesn't sit then there's
no positive interaction.

Trust your dog, ask it to do your request and say "good dog"
sincerely at the end of the request and I bet you'll find your
dog thinking then responding everytime.

Paul

=======================


From: Paul B (NOSPAMpanders@zfree.co.nz)
Subject: Re: Get off the bed... please?
Date: 2001-07-03 03:05:59 PST

A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies to
every aspect of the relationship with your dog.

Paul.

========================


"Paul B" <someone@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:3edc57c5@clear.net.nz...
>
> "shaper" <nomail@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:3edb6bbb@quokka.wn.com.au...
>
> > I have been reading these forums for a few weeks now,
> > and am getting really confused!!
> > but is there actually anyone who has used the methods in
> > this manual with any success ?

100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL, NEARLY INSTANTLY, BY NEARLY
EVERY FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual Student.

It's the GENTLEST, FASTEST, MOST EFFECTIVE,
NON FORCE, NON CONFRONTATIONAL, NON BRIBE, SCIENTIFIC and
PSYCHOLOGICAL technique in the
Whole Wild World, BAR NONE.

> > I am wanting to get a rhodesian ridgeback soon
> > and really would like to know the best and most
> > effective way of training without using food
> > treats or violence (i do agree with what the guy
> > says about food treats and violence)
> > Thanks for any intelligent replies
>
> I have tried his methods and found them extremely
> effective.There are several areas in particular I
> found useful.
>
> He teaches you and the dog to pay attention to
> each other all the time. He teaches you to have
> such good communication with your dog you
> don't need leash corrections or shock collars or
> even food, you can get the dogs attention any
> time you like by calling it or with a snap of your
> fingers.
>
> When I trained both my dogs to "heel" or walk
> close to me I ended up going to the parks and
> teaching them without a lead at all, that ensured
> I had to use good communication and was unable
> to be tempted to use the lead to correct them.
>
> Another part of the training I agree with is not using
> the "policeman" approach, where you tell a dog "no"
> or react with it in such a way that you become involved
> in the behaviour (by trying to stop it), this approach
> often results in a dog ceasing the behaviour when
> you are about but doing it when you aren't (bin raiding,
> counter surfing etc).
>
> Basically you are taught to make your dog a good
> friend who likes and wants to work for you for the
> pleasure of working for you (setting the hierarchy
> is included in this), teach it to recall reliably,
> then to do everything else (sit, stay down etc etc).
>
> Unwanted behaviours are addressed as they occur.
> If you understand what you are trying to achieve and
> are prepared to work with it you can get great results.
>
> Paul

===============================

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Fitz [mailto:donfitz69@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, 28 February 2003 11:53 a.m.
> To: Amanda@DCFWatch.com; paulbousie@clear.net.nz
> Subject: Jerry Howe
>
> Hi,
>
> Jerry uses your email in his posts and I was wondering
> what you have to say of his training methods.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Bousie" <paulbousie@clear.net.nz>
To: "'Don Fitz'" <donfitz69@hotmail.com>;
<Amanda@DCFWatch.com> Cc: <jhowe2@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 5:45 AM
Subject: RE: Jerry Howe

> If you have read the newsgroup posts then you must
> already have a good idea about what I think.
>
> His methods are the best I have come across.
>
> They aren't a quick fix but an entire training concept so
> if you aren't in for the long haul then don't bother. If
> you go his way then you have to forget all the other
> gibberish that other people spew, you have to believe
> in what you are doing, then and only then will you get
> the results.
>
> You can't combine his methods with other training
> methods, not until you understand what you are
> trying to achieve, and even then I have only ever
> combined about 2 other trainers ideas and even
> then just a snip of what they suggest which works
> in parallel with the Wits End concept.
>
> His methods make you as the trainer completely
> responsible for your actions, his methods make
> you think and work out your own solutions for
> any given situation, the default (the recall) is
> always there to get things under control again.
> His ideas and concepts teach you to work with
> the dog, to develop a team and a willingness to
> work together which is surely the best way to be.
> His methods don't use force or intimidation but
> they do totally emphasize the absolute importance
> of pack (family pack) structure, without that you
> can achieve almost nothing.
>
> If you are wondering how a dog can be trained
> without any negativity the answer lies in the recall,
> anytime your dog doesn't follow through with a
> request you call him / her to you, since the recall
> is the first thing taught and it is taught in such a
> way it becomes a reflex the dog always returns
> to you, it is a subordinate position for the dog and
> we release it by asking for a "heel" which is an
> "equal" position.
>
> His methods are very good, his understanding of
> dogs is excellent, I recommend his methods.
>
> Paul Bousie

==============================

"Linda" <llindaleedaniel@msn.com> wrote in message
news:3c317fe4.0302091951.7215c6f7@posting.google.c om...

I have posted about my dog Sunshine before who was aggressive
to all people and dogs until I found and used
the Wits End Training methods.

He is now great--can go any where and he is fine with people
and dog even when they get in his face on a flexi lead! He
still had problem with stress that was making him scratch him
self raw in places--he nose has had a sore for the last month.

We started using the Doggy Do Right and his nose
was almost healed when the machine went off. The
next day he was scratching and opened the sore on
his nose again.

Twelve hours after I turned it back on he quit scratching
and his nose is healing again. The machine does work.

I have two barking dogs behind me that have reduced
their barking a lot. In fact when we were out walking
one them came over to visit and the owner did not notice
he was gone since he did not bark at us as he usually did.

The Wits End Training Method works, the problems
I have had are the result I having trouble breaking my
old patterns.

My dog got it fast but kept getting confused when I had
trouble getting the commands together. I always thought I
used praise but I really did not until I started using the
Wits End Method of sound and praise. In the past it took a lot
of treats to get him to do something--now I have been able to
teach him several things like pull the laundry basket with
just praise. He really likes it better I think and does not
seem to miss the treats for jobs.

If you have problem with your dog try the Wits End Method--it
is free and it works and it improves your relationship.
So much of dog training is force and using pain to get a dog
to do something that a method that works and does not rely on
pain, force, or "corrections" is wonderful for both owner and
dog. Don't think something that is free can not be good
because I have spent more hours and more thousands of dollars
than I though possible in the three years with Sunshine and
nothing helped until I found the Wits End Method of sound and
praise.

==================================


--- Original Message -----
From: Paul Bousie
To: The Puppy Wizard
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:00 AM
Subject: Geday.


Hey J,

I see nothings changed on the NG. Still the same
old crappy advice and misunderstanding of the
only advice worth reading.

The problem with your method J is that I can't
answer the questions on the NG no more, people
are after a quick fix, they don't want to understand
that dog training requires a disiplined method, I'm
now really understanding that they are all result
orientated, they want the dog to sit, to down, to
stay, to come, to stop it's "bad" behaviours, they
want to stamp out each anxiety one at a time not
realising they create a new one as they deal with
the last.

I feel sorry for them, they don't understand, they
don't even realise the errors of thier ways and
they arn't self thinkers, they follow the majority,
after all if everyone says thats the way then it
must be. I've finally realised people don't want
to learn to train dogs they want a trained dog,
they want a little puppet that sits and stays and
downs and does all the nice doggy stuff or so
they think, then when the dog acts like a dog
they come squealing to the NG asking how to
stop the dog being a dog.

I have a nice little visulisation of a dogs mind
that I think demonstrates the way we approach
dog training. Imagine lots of little circles all in a
cluster, each one representing a dog anxiety or
behaviour ( desied or not), each circle represents
something about the dog, all of them create what
a dog is.

The traditional way to train a dog is to stamp out
the "bad" circles, try to eliminate as many as you
can, problem is each one you stamp out another
takes it's place (anxiety circles can't be destroyed
they just change), obviously it's a futile exercise,
but thats the traditional way.

Now imagine a big circle that completely surrounds
all the small circles, this big circle is the whole dog,
that's what we get hold of with all the little circles
inside, we don't see the little circles we see the BIG
circle the macro as you put it and use that to train.

I laugh now when I see posts critisising you, they
are critising something they don't even understand
or even have the capacity to understand.

See ya,

Paul